Dirty French

Located: 180 Ludlow St., Call: 212-254-3000, Lower East Side, Manhattan
The media fuss over Dirty French has much to do with the team behind it: Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi and Jeff Zalaznick of Parm, Torrisi Italian Specialties and Carbone fame. Credit also goes to Sean MacPherson; his new Ludlow Hotel, where the bistro is based, competes for jet-setters against his other swanky downtown properties, the Bowery Hotel, the Jane and the Marlton. The pink neon sign spelling out Dirty French is evocative of the entrance to a Moulin Rouge–style boîte, and the interior is suitably dark and sexy. On the sound system is 1980s rock, not Edith Piaf. Gallic classics get diverse twists: there's roasted beet and Roquefort salad with candied cashews, porgy Provençal with green tomatoes and Cajun spices, and duck à l'orange rubbed with North African spices. The wine list is pure French, heavy on vintage Champagne and reserve bottles.